It happens. We all have to take the car in for service at the dealer or an independent shop at some point in our lives. Being an automotive technician working out of my garage at times, I have had to take cars to the dealer for computer reprogramming, to the exhaust shop to have custom pipes bent, or to have an alignment done at the local Firestone.
Sometimes, after taking your vehicle in for service, you come home to find that something else is broken. This is what we call in the business, the "Ever Since." Here, I will outline some common scenarios that can be mistaken as an "Ever Since" and some that are actually issues caused by negligent repairs.
1. Ever since you changed my oil my brakes have been bad.
This one is, quite simply, nonsense. Changing the oil in a vehicle has absolutely nothing to do with the brakes. The only way the brakes could even possibly be affected by an oil change is by topping up the brake fluid with something other than brake fluid. The friction material of the brakes is in no way affected by changing engine oil.
2. Ever since you replaced my radiator my air conditioning doesn't work
This one is plausible. Replacing the radiator in a vehicle requires work to be done in the vicinity of the air conditioning condenser and often times requires the cooling fans to be disconnected and removed. If the condenser is damaged in the process of removing the radiator, the Freon will leak out and the air conditioner will be inoperative. Sometimes, the leak can be so small that it is not detected at the time of service. If this is the case, bring it back to the place it was serviced and have it checked out. Almost every shop will not charge a dime to look at it, especially if a recent service was performed. If the cooling fan is disconnected, the air conditioner will not work as efficiently as it was before but the vehicle will not overheat. Look to see if there are any wires unplugged in the vicinity of the fans and if there are, plug them back in and everything will be fine.
3. Ever since you performed a wheel alignment my tires have been wearing out faster.
Although hard to prove because a long time and many miles have to pass to notice erratic tire wear, this one is totally possible. Many cars today only have adjustments for toe. A failed attempt at toe adjustment will result in premature wear of the tires. In this case, bring it back to the shop that aligned it with the paperwork from the alignment and show them the tire wear. Any reputable shop will admit a mistake and correct it.
4. Ever since you aligned my vehicle my CV joint went bad.
Plausible as well. Often times to align a vehicle, the tie rods must be heated with a torch to break rusty nuts free. Mistakes happen, and when a slip of the torch happens, sometimes the boot of the CV joint can be burned and rupture. The grease will leak out and the joint will subsequently be run dry. This will cause joint failure-the clicking and popping sound when at a full turn. Inspect the CV joints for burning or melting. If they are burned or melted, the damage will be on the peak of the bellows. If it is normal wear, the split will be at the valley of the bellows and will usually be split all the way around. If it shows signs of damage at the peak, then it was likely burned during the alignment process. This rule applies to all work performed on the front end of the car, including ball joints, tie rod ends, stabilizer links, and hubs.
5. Ever since you installed my stereo my heat doesn't get warm.
This one could be either way. Usually when installing a stereo, the dashboard of the car doesn't have to come apart too much. The technician installing the stereo generally never has to get deep enough in to the dashboard to harm the heater core. If your heat doesn't work following any electrical service, then it likely has nothing to do with that service. Something else probably went wrong.
Choosing a reputable mechanic to service your investment is a hard decision. Take the advice of family and friends, check out Google for reviews, and take the car for simple service and see how they perform. First impressions are everything and usually tell a lot about a shop. If the people are friendly, clean, and professional, you can be assured that they will do clean, professional, and friendly service. If the technicians are dirty, the shop is dirty, and all you hear about when you walk in the door is about parts of women's anatomy, then run for the hills. You have a choice, and this is where you spend your money. You need to be comfortable that the job will be done right the first time, with no "Ever Since."
For any questions about repairs and related domino effects from repairs, feel free to email me at DIYfixyourcar@gmail.com
Monday, August 29, 2011
Thursday, August 25, 2011
Testing and Diagnosis: 2003 Chevrolet Express A/C issue.
Diagnosing the problem is usually 75% of the hassle with automotive repair. A seemingly simple problem can snowball in to a weekend of trial and error, only to find that the hundreds of dollars worth of parts you've bought failed to fix any problem with your vehicle. Steps must be followed to correctly diagnose any issue with your vehicle. Today we will look at a 2003 Chevrolet Express van. The air conditioner doesn't function.
First thing, when an air conditioner doesn't work in a vehicle, we must do a simple visual inspection to ensure that everything is present and accounted for. Sometimes, the simplest thing can make the air conditioner not function. Belts, electrical connections, and lines and hoses must all be verified present. Ensure that the condenser has not sustained major damage.
Next, start the vehicle and turn the air conditioner on. See the compressor? If the clutch fails to engage to turn the compressor itself, the Freon in the system has no way of moving through the system. Remember our previous post about how A/C works in your vehicle? Most likely, if your A/C doesn't work the compressor is not turning at all, only free wheeling on the pulley.
If the compressor clutch engages and turns the compressor constantly while the A/C is on, then you most likely have low Freon levels, but high pressure. R134A refrigerant is a smaller molecule than air and will escape over time, leaving only hot air and residual pressures in the system. The clutch will engage, but the system has no refrigerant to compress and turn in to liquid. Evacuate the refrigerant and recharge the system at this point and everything will function normally.
In the case of this Express, however, the Freon levels were verified good through a vehicle history and testing pressure. The system was recharged only a year ago and the clutch was not engaging the compressor.
We connect the lines of the A/C gauges to the high and low ports of the system to test pressure. The low pressure port on this particular vehicle is located on the receiver/dryer. The low side port can always be identified in an R134A system as being smaller than the other.
After connecting the gauge set, we take pressure readings from the system. Here, we can see that we have 74psi of pressure on both the high and low pressure side. This is totally normal and within specification for this vehicle. You'll want your pressure to be between 60-80psi with the system not running. Also, check to see if pressures are equal between the high and low pressure sides. Any variance in this will indicate a blockage in the system from a pinched line or hose, a plugged orifice tube, or some other issue. Seeing as how my pressures are normal, the system should work! At this point, we have to look at an electrical problem.
Next, start the vehicle and turn the air conditioner on. See the compressor? If the clutch fails to engage to turn the compressor itself, the Freon in the system has no way of moving through the system. Remember our previous post about how A/C works in your vehicle? Most likely, if your A/C doesn't work the compressor is not turning at all, only free wheeling on the pulley.
If the compressor clutch engages and turns the compressor constantly while the A/C is on, then you most likely have low Freon levels, but high pressure. R134A refrigerant is a smaller molecule than air and will escape over time, leaving only hot air and residual pressures in the system. The clutch will engage, but the system has no refrigerant to compress and turn in to liquid. Evacuate the refrigerant and recharge the system at this point and everything will function normally.
In the case of this Express, however, the Freon levels were verified good through a vehicle history and testing pressure. The system was recharged only a year ago and the clutch was not engaging the compressor.
We connect the lines of the A/C gauges to the high and low ports of the system to test pressure. The low pressure port on this particular vehicle is located on the receiver/dryer. The low side port can always be identified in an R134A system as being smaller than the other.
 |
| The high pressure port is located on the firewall on a high-pressure line. |
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| The low pressure port is located just to the right of the red positive battery terminal on the side of the receiver/dryer |
After connecting the gauge set, we take pressure readings from the system. Here, we can see that we have 74psi of pressure on both the high and low pressure side. This is totally normal and within specification for this vehicle. You'll want your pressure to be between 60-80psi with the system not running. Also, check to see if pressures are equal between the high and low pressure sides. Any variance in this will indicate a blockage in the system from a pinched line or hose, a plugged orifice tube, or some other issue. Seeing as how my pressures are normal, the system should work! At this point, we have to look at an electrical problem.
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| High pressure side at 74psi |
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| Low pressure side at 74psi |
The first thing to check when you suspect an electrical problem is all of the connections at the pressure switches and compressor. Often times, I have seen a plug that someone has inadvertently unplugged or has forgotten to replace after a repair. If everything is plugged in and working, the dangerous part comes.
Remember watching Norm Abrams on the New Yankee Workshop? He would always pause before using a power tool to talk about shop safety. Here's our speech:
We at DIY are only concerned about your safety. If you feel at ALL uncomfortable working around a running engine, then stop. DO NOT attempt any repair or diagnosis on a running engine if you do not feel COMPLETELY comfortable working around moving parts that can possibly injure you.
With that out of the way, let's test the compressor clutch coil for battery power.
Locate the plug for the compressor clutch. It is always located on the back of the compressor pulley, and on GM products it is a flat plug with two terminals. One is chassis ground and the other is battery voltage signal. If everything is working correctly on the pressure switch side and the other checks the vehicle's system makes to ensure proper pressure, we should have battery voltage at this connection.
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| Pin the terminals in the connector to test for voltage. |
After pinning the terminals in the connector with your voltage meter or test light, start the engine and turn the A/C on. Ah ha! We have battery voltage at this terminal. This means that the system is functioning properly right down to the compressor clutch coil. With all systems functioning, there is no reason other than a bad compressor coil for this system to be inoperative.
After replacing the compressor clutch coil, we now have functioning air conditioning and a happy customer!
For any questions about testing or diagnosing a problem with your vehicle, feel free to email us at DIYfixyourcar@gmail.com
Wednesday, August 24, 2011
Preparing for the winter months
The elements are tough on vehicles. Not only does the salt and other road grime here in the Midwest ruin the fit and finish of the body through rust and corrosion, but the heat and cold also take their toll on your automobile. Let's take a look at some of the things harsh weather does internally...
1. Battery
The battery in your car is quite important. What do you do if it fails to function? Call AAA? Ask for a jump? Let's consider the possibility that you're stuck at a closed farmer's market in the rural west of Michigan with nobody for miles and spotty cell service. You would want your car to start in this situation without a doubt.
Contrary to popular belief, your battery in the car is not harmed by cold temperatures-in fact, it works better in colder climates! The heat of summer is what makes your battery fail out of the blue. You may ask: "Why does my battery always die when it's -10 and I'm late for work?" The answer is simple. Your car doesn't like the cold in general. Oil is thicker, so the starter motor has to work harder to rotate the engine. You need precious cold cranking amps to achieve this. The iron, aluminum, and steel in your engine contracts in the cold, drawing tighter together. Steel piston rings draw tighter to steel cylinder sleeves and cause more friction. Until the engine warms up, these rings move quite hard through their process of combustion.
Your battery decides it will die in the winter because it has to work harder. It has already sustained damage from 100+ degrees under the hood of your car all summer, draining and charging, cranking, running the blower motor for A/C, headlights at night, and all other things a battery does. With the constant draining and charging in the heat, lime and other compounds build up on the lead plates of the battery and cause it to not accept as much of a charge. This buildup is normal wear and has happened since the invention of the lead-acid battery. This is why you can only expect 5-6 years from a new battery.
2. Oil viscosity
The oil is the life blood of your engine. The summer months can take their toll on your oil because of increased heat and contamination. Let's put this in lay terms-
Take 8 ounces of cooking oil and put it in a frying pan. Heat it to 300 degrees and see what happens-The oil will break down and reduce because of evaporation and burning. It darkens from carbon buildup. While it darkens and hardens, it also loses viscosity. Viscosity is basically the oil's resistance to sheer tension or it's ability to stay in one piece while lubricating. Viscosity is a term that describes an oil's thickness. An increase in thickness reduces an oil's ability to effectively lubricate.
In your car, the summer months take their toll on the oil because it is heated to extreme temperatures on a regular basis. The increased thickness of the oil reduces it's ability to be put under tensile stress in the main bearings of the engine, thus reducing it's viscosity. Bottom line-Use the recommended oil for your vehicle and change it regularly. In fact, I change the oil in my vehicle just on the cusp of winter to ensure proper viscosity through the colder months.
3. Accessories
How many times have you gotten in your car and the windshield is frozen? Here in Michigan, it is a way of life. The thing to remember is that your car was not meant to break ice away from windows and the body. Don't even think of turning your wipers on while the windshield is covered with snow or ice! This can turn in to an expensive venture that will leave you with no windshield wipers. Inside the wiper arm, there is a splined fitting that accepts a cam of the same splines. The cam turns, causing the wiper arm to lift and drop. When ice or snow blocks the arm, the splines will strip and cause damage to the cam and to the arm itself. If you're lucky, it will only damage the arm.
4. Cooling system
The antifreeze in your car is just what the name suggests. It prevents the water that cools your engine from freezing in extreme temperatures. Let's look at an example:
The water in your car is generally the temperature of the outside air when at rest. Think of a 30mph wind coming through on a day when the temperatures are already 10 degrees. This causes a windchill of -10 degrees. Think of water at -10 degrees....it freezes quick! Let's take a hypothetical 60mph wind on a 10 degree day...That's a windchill of about -20. Keep in mind, the radiator in your car is right in front and will experience both 30 and 60mph in the winter months.
When coolant freezes in an engine, it expands. The cooling system in your car is completely sealed and will not accept much expansion, if any at all. If it freezes in the engine of the car, it will actually cause the engine block to crack under stress. That's right, folks...water is stronger than iron. In the radiator of the car, if the tiny ports become blocked with ice, the cooling capacity of the car is compromised and the engine will overheat. This will surely leave you stranded in 10 degree weather with a car that doesn't run.
My recommendation is to check your cooling system's efficiency by buying a coolant tester. It is a small tubular tool with a bulb on one end, similar to a turkey baster. You suck up some coolant in the tube and there are several different balls in the tube. The ones that float tell you how effective your antifreeze is. Most antifreeze is effective to -30 to -40 degrees. If you're running antifreeze that is only registering in the 0 to -5 degree range, flush and change it.
What most people overlook is the acidity of the coolant. When checking your coolant for effectiveness, also check for pH. Your coolant becomes acidic through the course of it's life and will eventually break down through fermentation. If coolant becomes too acidic, it will essentially 'eat' all of the aluminum components in the engine. Check the price of these parts before you say: "There's not much aluminum in my engine, it won't hurt!": Cylinder heads, water pump, radiator, intake manifold, thermostat housing, and heater core.
Please take care of your car, no matter what season it is. Your car is not only a machine, but it is also a friend that you rely on and love. If you have any questions about cars, repair, maintenance, automotive theory, or questions about life in general, email me at DIYfixyourcar@gmail.com.
1. Battery
The battery in your car is quite important. What do you do if it fails to function? Call AAA? Ask for a jump? Let's consider the possibility that you're stuck at a closed farmer's market in the rural west of Michigan with nobody for miles and spotty cell service. You would want your car to start in this situation without a doubt.
Contrary to popular belief, your battery in the car is not harmed by cold temperatures-in fact, it works better in colder climates! The heat of summer is what makes your battery fail out of the blue. You may ask: "Why does my battery always die when it's -10 and I'm late for work?" The answer is simple. Your car doesn't like the cold in general. Oil is thicker, so the starter motor has to work harder to rotate the engine. You need precious cold cranking amps to achieve this. The iron, aluminum, and steel in your engine contracts in the cold, drawing tighter together. Steel piston rings draw tighter to steel cylinder sleeves and cause more friction. Until the engine warms up, these rings move quite hard through their process of combustion.
Your battery decides it will die in the winter because it has to work harder. It has already sustained damage from 100+ degrees under the hood of your car all summer, draining and charging, cranking, running the blower motor for A/C, headlights at night, and all other things a battery does. With the constant draining and charging in the heat, lime and other compounds build up on the lead plates of the battery and cause it to not accept as much of a charge. This buildup is normal wear and has happened since the invention of the lead-acid battery. This is why you can only expect 5-6 years from a new battery.
2. Oil viscosity
The oil is the life blood of your engine. The summer months can take their toll on your oil because of increased heat and contamination. Let's put this in lay terms-
Take 8 ounces of cooking oil and put it in a frying pan. Heat it to 300 degrees and see what happens-The oil will break down and reduce because of evaporation and burning. It darkens from carbon buildup. While it darkens and hardens, it also loses viscosity. Viscosity is basically the oil's resistance to sheer tension or it's ability to stay in one piece while lubricating. Viscosity is a term that describes an oil's thickness. An increase in thickness reduces an oil's ability to effectively lubricate.
In your car, the summer months take their toll on the oil because it is heated to extreme temperatures on a regular basis. The increased thickness of the oil reduces it's ability to be put under tensile stress in the main bearings of the engine, thus reducing it's viscosity. Bottom line-Use the recommended oil for your vehicle and change it regularly. In fact, I change the oil in my vehicle just on the cusp of winter to ensure proper viscosity through the colder months.
3. Accessories
How many times have you gotten in your car and the windshield is frozen? Here in Michigan, it is a way of life. The thing to remember is that your car was not meant to break ice away from windows and the body. Don't even think of turning your wipers on while the windshield is covered with snow or ice! This can turn in to an expensive venture that will leave you with no windshield wipers. Inside the wiper arm, there is a splined fitting that accepts a cam of the same splines. The cam turns, causing the wiper arm to lift and drop. When ice or snow blocks the arm, the splines will strip and cause damage to the cam and to the arm itself. If you're lucky, it will only damage the arm.
4. Cooling system
The antifreeze in your car is just what the name suggests. It prevents the water that cools your engine from freezing in extreme temperatures. Let's look at an example:
The water in your car is generally the temperature of the outside air when at rest. Think of a 30mph wind coming through on a day when the temperatures are already 10 degrees. This causes a windchill of -10 degrees. Think of water at -10 degrees....it freezes quick! Let's take a hypothetical 60mph wind on a 10 degree day...That's a windchill of about -20. Keep in mind, the radiator in your car is right in front and will experience both 30 and 60mph in the winter months.
When coolant freezes in an engine, it expands. The cooling system in your car is completely sealed and will not accept much expansion, if any at all. If it freezes in the engine of the car, it will actually cause the engine block to crack under stress. That's right, folks...water is stronger than iron. In the radiator of the car, if the tiny ports become blocked with ice, the cooling capacity of the car is compromised and the engine will overheat. This will surely leave you stranded in 10 degree weather with a car that doesn't run.
My recommendation is to check your cooling system's efficiency by buying a coolant tester. It is a small tubular tool with a bulb on one end, similar to a turkey baster. You suck up some coolant in the tube and there are several different balls in the tube. The ones that float tell you how effective your antifreeze is. Most antifreeze is effective to -30 to -40 degrees. If you're running antifreeze that is only registering in the 0 to -5 degree range, flush and change it.
What most people overlook is the acidity of the coolant. When checking your coolant for effectiveness, also check for pH. Your coolant becomes acidic through the course of it's life and will eventually break down through fermentation. If coolant becomes too acidic, it will essentially 'eat' all of the aluminum components in the engine. Check the price of these parts before you say: "There's not much aluminum in my engine, it won't hurt!": Cylinder heads, water pump, radiator, intake manifold, thermostat housing, and heater core.
Please take care of your car, no matter what season it is. Your car is not only a machine, but it is also a friend that you rely on and love. If you have any questions about cars, repair, maintenance, automotive theory, or questions about life in general, email me at DIYfixyourcar@gmail.com.
Saturday, August 20, 2011
Fix it or scrap it?
Repairing a vehicle can be an expensive venture if the facilities and tools are not available and a repair at a shop is necessary. At what point do we sever our relationship with and old friend and make a new purchase?
Finding the right time to call it quits is a tough call. Many factors come in to play when deciding to do costly repairs. An engine, transmission, or major body work generally aren't jobs that the common person is able to do in their home garage or driveway. Major repairs can cost thousands and take time.
In this economy, repairing the vehicle is a great idea. Who wants a car payment? I certainly don't. Where else can you find a vehicle with a new engine for $1,500? Nowhere. Never trust the word of the seller, either. Have them back up claims of new powertrain replacements with receipts and warranty paperwork. Generally people will not drop thousands in to a vehicle just to sell it for a low price.
Let's not go crazy here, though. My 1993 Ford F-150 is rusty enough at this point that I wouldn't think of performing body work if it happened to sustain damage from a crash. I would definitely replace a clutch, brakes, or any other repairs that it may need.
Remember to check the value of your vehicle not only on a reputable site such as KBB.com or NADA.com, but also check out market value of the vehicle. If you have a vehicle like a 2001 Dodge Intrepid that needs an engine, don't think of dropping a $3,000 engine in it. It's only worth $2,500 on a good day. On the other hand, if you happen to have a 1999 Ford F-250 that has a bad engine, then drop the $3,500 for a new one because it's still worth in upwards of $6,000.
If you have any questions about repairing or purchasing vehicles, feel free to email me at diyfixyourcar@gmail.com
Finding the right time to call it quits is a tough call. Many factors come in to play when deciding to do costly repairs. An engine, transmission, or major body work generally aren't jobs that the common person is able to do in their home garage or driveway. Major repairs can cost thousands and take time.
In this economy, repairing the vehicle is a great idea. Who wants a car payment? I certainly don't. Where else can you find a vehicle with a new engine for $1,500? Nowhere. Never trust the word of the seller, either. Have them back up claims of new powertrain replacements with receipts and warranty paperwork. Generally people will not drop thousands in to a vehicle just to sell it for a low price.
Let's not go crazy here, though. My 1993 Ford F-150 is rusty enough at this point that I wouldn't think of performing body work if it happened to sustain damage from a crash. I would definitely replace a clutch, brakes, or any other repairs that it may need.
Remember to check the value of your vehicle not only on a reputable site such as KBB.com or NADA.com, but also check out market value of the vehicle. If you have a vehicle like a 2001 Dodge Intrepid that needs an engine, don't think of dropping a $3,000 engine in it. It's only worth $2,500 on a good day. On the other hand, if you happen to have a 1999 Ford F-250 that has a bad engine, then drop the $3,500 for a new one because it's still worth in upwards of $6,000.
If you have any questions about repairing or purchasing vehicles, feel free to email me at diyfixyourcar@gmail.com
Thursday, August 18, 2011
Oh, the choices we make
Finding the right vehicle for your needs can be a difficult process. Here, I will guide you through some of the basic thoughts surrounding purchasing a vehicle.
1. What will you be using it for?
This is not as easy as it seems. The daily commuter doesn't need a large pickup truck to commute from work to home. Pickup trucks are great, but look at your daily activities to see if one is right for you. I always have a home improvement project going on at the house, so a pickup truck for me is a way of life. I love my truck, but it is not my daily driver. The fuel economy is nothing that I want to deal with on a daily basis, so I choose to commute to work in a smaller, more efficient car. I reserve the pickup truck for the weekend projects and for work at home.
2. Price
We all want fancy leather seats, DVD, navigation, and a plethora of other toys in our vehicles. All of the toys come with a price, though. Ask yourself: "Do I really need seat warmers?" The answer: a plain and simple "No."
Our parents and grandparents never had the heated leather and DVD and navigation and integrated beverage coolers in their vehicles. The choice wasn't even there in 1972. Options were power windows, power steering, and automatic transmission, among other sparse choices. As vehicles have become more complicated throughout the years, the price has followed suit. Many of the items considered "options" 30 years in the past have now become standard equipment on cars of today. How long has it been since you've seen crank windows in a new car? Buy the base model-you'll be happier in the long run. It's a proven fact that the number one car among millionaires is the Toyota Corolla.
3. Cost of repair
This is a factor that many of us overlook when purchasing a new vehicle. Eventually the car will break; it's a fact of life. Parts can be expensive and labor can be intensive on some vehicles. My daily driver is a Mercedes-Benz, and OH BOY, do I pay for it. Granted, I work on vehicles, so labor is never an issue (other than the fact that I am away from my friends and family during the repairs), but the parts are ungodly expensive for these types of cars. As an example, I recently had to replace the air conditioner compressor. For a Chevrolet Malibu of the same vintage as my Mercedes, the part would have been around $250-$300. The Mercedes, of course, costs in upwards of $1,200. Imagine having to pay for the parts and five hours of labor at the Mercedes dealer to the tune of $115 per hour. Go domestic if you can't afford a $5,000 repair. Ford, Chrysler, and General Motors vehicles offer comfort, style, and reliability and won't break the bank when it's time for some maintenance or repair.
4. Brand
We all love our labels because they reflect the inner being of our souls. Labels define who we are and how we live our lives. Some are true, others are a facade of our need to impress others without actually living up to the hype. I am a lowly automotive technician in western Michigan that drives a Mercedes-Benz to work every day. It stays parked next to my coworkers' old Chevy trucks and Buicks and Escorts. I enjoy the feel of a German luxury automobile and I appreciate the history and scope of the Mercedes brand. They are, of course, the inventor of the automobile. Find the brand that speaks to your soul and stick with it. Brand loyalty is what has kept me in a great pickup truck for many years as well. I am a true-blue fan of Ford pickup trucks. I will have them for the rest of my life. You will find that once you find a home for your automotive mind, it will become obsessed with that brand and nothing can stop it.
5. How many people will you have to carry?
How many times have we heard the story of the guy that loves his Camaro, babies and cherishes it, gives it all the love and affection that a car should have, then finds a girl, marries, has kids, and can't manage to fit three car seats in the back? We all have to look to our future when making the difficult choice to purchase a new car. Where will you be in three years? Five years? Will you have kids and a wife? Will you be a confirmed bachelor? Are kids not the right choice for you in the future? Some of us love the feel of our Astro vans and Windstars, but others wouldn't be caught dead in a minivan. Try to find something that suits your lifestyle, even if it's something that cramps it in the short run. There are many vehicles out there that will compromise between style, utility, and features. If you're a parent of four and don't want a minivan, choose something cooler like a crossover SUV such as a Ford Edge, GMC Terrain, Chrysler Pacifica, or Mercedes M-Class. These stylish vehicles offer the utility of cargo and people capacity without cramping our beloved style.
Buying a car is always a difficult decision and not something that I particularly enjoy doing. There are many factors to consider when making the decision to go forward with the second largest purchase of our life. You will be stuck with your choice for several years, so be sure that you make the correct decision! I am always here to help, too. Feel free to email any questions or concerns about the purchasing process, brand choice, and reliability. I see broken cars all day long and I have bought several in my lifetime. Contact me at diyfixyourcar@gmail.com.
1. What will you be using it for?
This is not as easy as it seems. The daily commuter doesn't need a large pickup truck to commute from work to home. Pickup trucks are great, but look at your daily activities to see if one is right for you. I always have a home improvement project going on at the house, so a pickup truck for me is a way of life. I love my truck, but it is not my daily driver. The fuel economy is nothing that I want to deal with on a daily basis, so I choose to commute to work in a smaller, more efficient car. I reserve the pickup truck for the weekend projects and for work at home.
2. Price
We all want fancy leather seats, DVD, navigation, and a plethora of other toys in our vehicles. All of the toys come with a price, though. Ask yourself: "Do I really need seat warmers?" The answer: a plain and simple "No."
Our parents and grandparents never had the heated leather and DVD and navigation and integrated beverage coolers in their vehicles. The choice wasn't even there in 1972. Options were power windows, power steering, and automatic transmission, among other sparse choices. As vehicles have become more complicated throughout the years, the price has followed suit. Many of the items considered "options" 30 years in the past have now become standard equipment on cars of today. How long has it been since you've seen crank windows in a new car? Buy the base model-you'll be happier in the long run. It's a proven fact that the number one car among millionaires is the Toyota Corolla.
3. Cost of repair
This is a factor that many of us overlook when purchasing a new vehicle. Eventually the car will break; it's a fact of life. Parts can be expensive and labor can be intensive on some vehicles. My daily driver is a Mercedes-Benz, and OH BOY, do I pay for it. Granted, I work on vehicles, so labor is never an issue (other than the fact that I am away from my friends and family during the repairs), but the parts are ungodly expensive for these types of cars. As an example, I recently had to replace the air conditioner compressor. For a Chevrolet Malibu of the same vintage as my Mercedes, the part would have been around $250-$300. The Mercedes, of course, costs in upwards of $1,200. Imagine having to pay for the parts and five hours of labor at the Mercedes dealer to the tune of $115 per hour. Go domestic if you can't afford a $5,000 repair. Ford, Chrysler, and General Motors vehicles offer comfort, style, and reliability and won't break the bank when it's time for some maintenance or repair.
4. Brand
We all love our labels because they reflect the inner being of our souls. Labels define who we are and how we live our lives. Some are true, others are a facade of our need to impress others without actually living up to the hype. I am a lowly automotive technician in western Michigan that drives a Mercedes-Benz to work every day. It stays parked next to my coworkers' old Chevy trucks and Buicks and Escorts. I enjoy the feel of a German luxury automobile and I appreciate the history and scope of the Mercedes brand. They are, of course, the inventor of the automobile. Find the brand that speaks to your soul and stick with it. Brand loyalty is what has kept me in a great pickup truck for many years as well. I am a true-blue fan of Ford pickup trucks. I will have them for the rest of my life. You will find that once you find a home for your automotive mind, it will become obsessed with that brand and nothing can stop it.
5. How many people will you have to carry?
How many times have we heard the story of the guy that loves his Camaro, babies and cherishes it, gives it all the love and affection that a car should have, then finds a girl, marries, has kids, and can't manage to fit three car seats in the back? We all have to look to our future when making the difficult choice to purchase a new car. Where will you be in three years? Five years? Will you have kids and a wife? Will you be a confirmed bachelor? Are kids not the right choice for you in the future? Some of us love the feel of our Astro vans and Windstars, but others wouldn't be caught dead in a minivan. Try to find something that suits your lifestyle, even if it's something that cramps it in the short run. There are many vehicles out there that will compromise between style, utility, and features. If you're a parent of four and don't want a minivan, choose something cooler like a crossover SUV such as a Ford Edge, GMC Terrain, Chrysler Pacifica, or Mercedes M-Class. These stylish vehicles offer the utility of cargo and people capacity without cramping our beloved style.
Buying a car is always a difficult decision and not something that I particularly enjoy doing. There are many factors to consider when making the decision to go forward with the second largest purchase of our life. You will be stuck with your choice for several years, so be sure that you make the correct decision! I am always here to help, too. Feel free to email any questions or concerns about the purchasing process, brand choice, and reliability. I see broken cars all day long and I have bought several in my lifetime. Contact me at diyfixyourcar@gmail.com.
Wednesday, August 17, 2011
Automotive review: the 2011 Ford F-150
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| 2011 Ford F-150 XL shown in Arctic White (Courtesy of Ford Motor Company) |
I had the opportunity to test a couple of different models of this new truck. The XL 4x2 model is a spartan, basic work truck that does nothing more than pose as a pickup truck-tough and ready for work. The interior is appointed with comfortable vinyl seating and the instruments are easily read. There are many features that are standard with the new 2011 XL model, such as AM/FM stereo, four-wheel disc brakes, and a standard 302bhp 3.7 V6 that is enough to power this amazing truck like a champ down the road with the best of the V8s but with twice the fuel economy. Price as tested: only $23,800.
I also drove the XL 4x4 version with the upgraded audio system and power group. This truck was a great buy for the money, priced at a mere $33,800 as equipped. The Microsoft SYNC is a great feature that integrates your smartphone via Bluetooth technology so that you may call and talk on your truck's audio system. The new-for-2011 5.0 V8 has a gruff murmur and plenty of power to tow your boat, horse trailer, or anything that you want to put behind it. With 360bhp, the 5.0 is more powerful than your dad's Hemi 'Cuda back in 1972!
My only complaint: The 2011 F150 is not available in manual transmission. My fellow stickheads will agree with me-we like to have a firm handshake when enjoying our trucks. It does, however, have the 6-speed automatic with standard manual gear selection on the selector stalk. It's not the same, though.
Bottom line: The Ford F-150 is my choice for top truck of 2011, hands down. It has been my choice of truck for many years and I have had many different styles of them. My current 1993 F-150 is pushing 250,000 miles with no issues other than normal wear and Michigan rust. All of my other F-150 trucks have achieved well over 200,000 miles. Take that, Chevy boys ;)
This review was written by Jaret Sweet with no affiliation with Ford Motor Company or any advertisers. Image is courtesy of Ford Motor Company.
Brakes
Ever hear a noise when you step on your brakes? How about a shaking or vibration? Ever had no brakes at all?
It goes without saying, your car's brakes are by far the most important system. It is a simple and effective system that can have many problems-some of them caused by outside forces, others caused by general wear. Here I will explain how your car's braking system works and some associated problems.
Brake fluid is basically a light silicate oil. It is very durable and will not break down rubber components like a standard petroleum oil will. This is why we don't use regular oil in a car's braking system-it will break down rubber components and make them soft and expandable. The fluid is retained in a reservoir above the brake master cylinder. The master cylinder moves the fluid to the various different parts of the braking system and squeezes or pushes pistons to apply a friction material to a metal surface attached to the wheels of the car.
Let's get a more in-depth look...
When you apply your foot to the brake, you will exert a pressure equal to about 25 lbs in normal braking. How will 25lbs stop a three-ton car? Force multiplication from the vacuum booster and hydraulic advantage. Your 25lbs of force is transformed in to 250-300 lbs of force on the wheels of the car. Multiply 300lbs of force times four wheels and you have a whopping 1200lbs of braking force to stop your car. Basically, the vacuum booster takes vacuum power from your engine's intake manifold and applies it to the braking system. The pulling of the vacuum from the engine creates a partial vacuum on one side of a diaphragm inside the booster. This diaphragm is connected to a rod that pushes a piston in the master cylinder to move fluid to the different components. It will multiply your force by 10 times in some cases! The piston in the master cylinder is much smaller than the pistons in the wheels, so the smaller amount of force exerted by the master cylinder is multiplied by the hydraulic advantage. It's kind of like pumping a bottle jack-you pump the smaller piston 15 times to get the same amount of movement out of the main piston.
Once the piston in the master cylinder is pushed in, the fluid travels through pipes throughout the vehicle to a valve that controls how much pressure is distributed to each wheel. It proportions the brakes for the optimal control, hence the name proportioning valve. In a typical automotive braking system, 70% of braking force is applied to the front, while 30% is applied to the rear. In some systems, the proportioning valve has a lever attached to the rear axle and adjusts force dependent on the weight of passengers and cargo. This is a load-sensitive proportioning valve.
After the proportioning valve, the fluid travels to the flexible hoses. These hoses are a durable, reinforced rubber material that can withstand an excessive amount of movement and pressure. With the movement of the wheels in bumps and cornering, the hoses provide the fluid with a universal pathway to their destination, unlike with a steel pipe which must remain stationary or it will break.
In a disc braking system (which is most common on cars and trucks today), the brake fluid travels to the caliper. The caliper is an iron or aluminum bracket that incorporates a piston that will squeeze tight on it's intended target while remaining mounted solid. Brake pads are made of a steel plate with a friction material bonded or riveted to it. The friction material today is a ceramic compound with bits of steel for strength and heat resistance. The pads and their friction material contact a rotor, which is attached to the back of the wheel and spins with the motion of the car. The brake rotor is typically made of strong cast iron, so it will not break or crack under extreme temperatures.
Years ago, cars had drum brakes on the front. Now, drum brakes are typically reserved for the rear brakes of some cars, although a majority of cars on the road today have disc brakes on the rear as well. A drum braking system is a totally different animal from a disc system. Instead of pads, it uses shoes. They are not constantly self-adjusting like a disc system. In a drum system, the friction material is pushed out by the force of the fluid, rather than squeezed together. The wheel cylinder accepts the brake fluid from the master cylinder and will push the shoes outward to the inside of a drum. The drum fits over the whole works and keeps everything in place.
Typical problems with automotive braking systems are worn lining, fluid leaks, and warped friction surfaces.
The drums and rotors must be perfectly round and flat to provide smooth braking. When a rotor heats up unevenly from hard braking or component failure, it will become warped. I'm sure everyone has driven a vehicle in their life where the brake pedal shakes, the steering wheel shakes, and it sounds like the whole world is coming apart when the brakes are applied. This is the case for most brake pulsations and vibrations.
Worn linings are an inevitable way of life for any car owner. There is no way around it; your brakes will have to be replaced at some time or another. The friction material on the pads and shoes will wear off as braking is used. It's like using a pencil eraser-it won't last forever. Typically, the brake pads have a warning system in place that drags a bit of metal along the side of the rotor to indicate that the lining is worn. This will cause a squeaking sound that is enough to make a deaf dog howl. Change your pads at this point or expensive damage will result!
Fluid leaks happen with rusting and damage to components. The steel pipes in a braking system are exposed to the elements of the road and will corrode and rust just as the body of the car. The only difference is, the body of the car is protected with paint-steel pipes are not. Eventually a loss of brake fluid can yield a loss of brakes altogether in your vehicle. This can be prevented by simply inspecting your brakes and all of the components.
If you need some help inspecting or diagnosing your braking problems, we are here to help! Email us at diyfixyourcar@gmail.com and we will provide you with free help!
Frequently asked questions: Air Conditioning
The summer months here in the midwest are HOT! I am asked about air conditioning a lot in these sweltering months. I would like to share some information about automotive air conditioning with you so that you can better understand how it works.
Basically, your automotive air conditioner is a refrigerator that is powered by the turning of the engine. A belt drives a pump, which in turn pumps refrigerant through a series of pipes and hoses, making a stop to cool down, then to evaporate in to cold air. Sounds simple, right? Not so much...
Refrigerant, or Freon, starts it's journey on the low pressure side of the compressor. When you turn the switch on for the air conditioning, the switch sends a signal to the system that it is going to power up, so it must make several checks to ensure that the system is going to work correctly before engaging and pumping. A pressure switch in the low side indicates whether or not the system has enough pressure to operate-usually 20-30psi. If this check is passed, then the circuit completes to engage the compressor clutch. The compressor clutch is basically an electromagnet that draws a pulley together so the belt is no longer freewheeling, but turning the compressor.
Next stop is the evaporator core. The evaporator core is the business end of an air conditioning system. It is what evaporates the Freon to make cold air. It is usually located deep within the dashboard of your vehicle, inside the Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC) unit. A fan blows air through the evaporator core, cooling the air to an optimal -10 degrees F.
After that, the refrigerant becomes very warm and must be renewed. With the increased heat of evaporation, the pressure increases. Next stop is the condenser.
The condenser is in the front of the vehicle and looks like a small radiator. It sits in front of the actual radiator and can easily be mistaken for part of your car's cooling system. Here, a cooling fan removes heat from the refrigerant and it becomes cooler. The pressure in this side can reach in upwards of 400psi! This is why this is called the high pressure side of the compressor.
In all basics, the compressor compresses the refrigerant to transform it from a gas to a liquid. The liquid changing back to a gas is what causes a loss of heat, thus making cold air in the evaporator, and the condenser is what cools the hot gas so it can be efficiently compressed to a liquid again and start the journey all over.
The refrigerant system is totally sealed. If there is a leak at all, the system will not work for very long, if at all.
Feel free to email diyfixyourcar@gmail.com for all of your air conditioning questions!
Basically, your automotive air conditioner is a refrigerator that is powered by the turning of the engine. A belt drives a pump, which in turn pumps refrigerant through a series of pipes and hoses, making a stop to cool down, then to evaporate in to cold air. Sounds simple, right? Not so much...
Refrigerant, or Freon, starts it's journey on the low pressure side of the compressor. When you turn the switch on for the air conditioning, the switch sends a signal to the system that it is going to power up, so it must make several checks to ensure that the system is going to work correctly before engaging and pumping. A pressure switch in the low side indicates whether or not the system has enough pressure to operate-usually 20-30psi. If this check is passed, then the circuit completes to engage the compressor clutch. The compressor clutch is basically an electromagnet that draws a pulley together so the belt is no longer freewheeling, but turning the compressor.
Next stop is the evaporator core. The evaporator core is the business end of an air conditioning system. It is what evaporates the Freon to make cold air. It is usually located deep within the dashboard of your vehicle, inside the Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC) unit. A fan blows air through the evaporator core, cooling the air to an optimal -10 degrees F.
After that, the refrigerant becomes very warm and must be renewed. With the increased heat of evaporation, the pressure increases. Next stop is the condenser.
The condenser is in the front of the vehicle and looks like a small radiator. It sits in front of the actual radiator and can easily be mistaken for part of your car's cooling system. Here, a cooling fan removes heat from the refrigerant and it becomes cooler. The pressure in this side can reach in upwards of 400psi! This is why this is called the high pressure side of the compressor.
In all basics, the compressor compresses the refrigerant to transform it from a gas to a liquid. The liquid changing back to a gas is what causes a loss of heat, thus making cold air in the evaporator, and the condenser is what cools the hot gas so it can be efficiently compressed to a liquid again and start the journey all over.
The refrigerant system is totally sealed. If there is a leak at all, the system will not work for very long, if at all.
Feel free to email diyfixyourcar@gmail.com for all of your air conditioning questions!
Welcome!
Welcome to DIY auto repair. Here we will explain in detail how to repair your car yourself. No job is too big or too small. I will provide the information, the specifications, and information on the correct tools and procedures necessary to repair your own automobile. I am an automotive technician with over 15 years of experience in the field, and I would like to give back to the community. I think everyone should be able to fix their own car for free!
If you have any questions about automotive repair or car questions in general, feel free to drop me a line at diyfixyourcar@gmail.com and I will share your question or comments with everyone.
Thank you, and happy wrenching!
If you have any questions about automotive repair or car questions in general, feel free to drop me a line at diyfixyourcar@gmail.com and I will share your question or comments with everyone.
Thank you, and happy wrenching!
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