Quick Lube Upsells

Every shop is in business to make money.  There's absolutely nothing wrong with this business model-it is the basis of business itself.  Profit is not a four-letter word.  Here's the situation:  You bring your car to the local Valvoline or Quaker State lube shop to get your oil changed like a good car owner and they try to sell you other services that usually cost a good amount of money.

One of my most frequent questions is about the upsells that shops recommend to vehicle owners that patronize their shops.  Here are a few of the examples, what you should do, the advantage and disadvantage of the service, and what it typically costs.

1.  Tire rotation
     Tire rotation is always a great idea as a maintenance item.  Typically, rotation should be performed every 6,000 miles if the tires on your vehicle all match and were purchased at the same time as a full set.  If you're the kind of person that changes the worst two (I know I am) then you will want to consider some different options.  Tire rotation actually changes seasonally.  Common sense for most people dictates that the best two tires should be on the front of the car for the best braking and steering control.  Some shops and manufacturers recommend the best pair on the rear for reduced oversteer and yaw control.  To explain deeper, yaw is the tendency of a moving object, such as a vehicle, to spin the rear end around in a circle when turning.  The weight distribution changes to the rear and one side of the vehicle in a turn, and the part of the vehicle with the increased gravitational force gains and keeps momentum more than the other sections of the car.  The increased momentum and weight acts like a counterbalance and throws the rear end of the car around, sending the vehicle in to a spin.  Just think of doing donuts...
     I recommend having the best tires on the rear of the vehicle during the summer months and the best on the front for the winter months.  Whether you're front or rear wheel drive, 70% of your braking power is on the front of the vehicle anyway.  You'll want the extra traction in the front in the slippery conditions, while you'll want the extra traction on the rear for wet conditions.  Typically this service is around $20-$30 at most shops that are equipped.  Some places will rotate your tires for free, though.  This is also a trick that gets the mechanic deeper in to your vehicle for more inspections, such as brake inspections and suspension inspections, which aren't a bad thing at all.

2.  Transmission Flush
     This can go either way.  All automatic transmissions have a light oil that makes it work.  Over time and use, this fluid becomes burned and loses viscosity.  For most vehicles, the fluid is supposed to be bright red.  If you pull your dipstick and find brown fluid that smells like bacon, then I would recommend a transmission flush.  Basically, this service replaces the transmission fluid in the vehicle through the service of it's own pump. The fluid cooler, located in the radiator or in the vicinity, has lines or hoses that connect to the main pump of the transmission.  It runs the fluid through the front of the car where fresh air can cool it to prevent burning.  One of these lines or hoses is disconnected from the vehicle and placed in to a bucket of new transmission fluid.  The other end is placed in to an empty bucket.  Typically, 16 quarts of transmission fluid is pumped through until it comes out clean at the other end.
     One of the major things to consider is the mileage and use of the vehicle.  If your fluid is still red and smells good, then it is not recommended.  Age never hurts oil...it sat in the ground for 65,000,000 years, so 10 years in a vehicle does nothing to hurt it.  If your car has over 175,000 miles on it and the fluid still looks good, then do not flush it!  Flushing a transmission with this many miles will basically "stir up the demons" and promote transmission failure.  If the service has been performed regularly throughout the vehicle's life, then by all means, have it done.
     Be sure the shop that performs the service uses the correct fluid for your vehicle as well.  Most Ford and General Motors vehicles previous to 2005 use the same fluid: DexronIII/Mercon IV.  Newer Ford vehicles take Mercon V, newer GM vehicles use Dexron IV.  These fluids have friction modifiers and are a bit thinner than the previous fluids, so the shifting points and fluid pressures will be the same.  In Chrysler vehicles, always use ATF+3 for vehicles previous to 2000, and ATF+4 for newer.  The Chrysler fluid has a distinctive smell-but that's not all.  These have special friction modifiers that save the clutches and plates, which is VERY important in a Chrysler vehicle.  NEVER run Dexron/Mercon, Type F, or any other fluid in a Chrysler vehicle.  Transmission failure will be on your horizon.
     This service can range from $75-$150, depending on the service you select.  I recommend having the best service performed in this case.  The premium service will include a filter change, special cleaners, conditioners, and a reseal of the transmission oil pan, along with the correct fluid for your car.

3.  Engine Flush.
     Pardon my redundancy with this service.  I will put a complete paragraph of what you should do in this case.
     NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, get this done.
     If the shop offers you a laundry list of reasons to have an engine flush done, run fast.  This is a horrible way to treat your vehicle.  The engine flush basically washes out the carbon deposits from the lower end of your engine, right where the bearings and seals all live.  When washing away bits of carbon, oil ports and galleys can be plugged up, contaminated with both carbon and the flush agent, and the bearings will be washed out.  After an engine flush, you can typically expect your car to start leaking oil, various gasket failures including head gaskets, intake gaskets, rear main seals (which the engine/transmission has to be removed to repair) and a multitude of other things.
     This service can cost up to $150.00, but consider the going labor rate at your local garage to have your engine replaced.  Do not have this service performed, EVER!

4.  Coolant Flush
     This is a great idea.  Newer vehicles come with a long-life coolant.  Typically this coolant is red or orange in color and will last 10 years or 100k miles.  As coolant is used, the pH lowers, causing it to be corrosive.  The orange coolant, in fact, will crystallize in to small solids that will plug up your radiator and heater core.  Those of us with a history of Chevrolet S-10s will know what it's like when Dex-Cool clogs a heater core in the middle of winter.  Typically, the heater core will clog before the radiator, mostly on GM products.  I recommend having orange coolant flushed every 40-50k miles.  I, in fact, will flush the system completely with  Prestone dry cooling system flush, plenty of water, and convert the system to conventional green antifreeze.  The green stuff will not clog up the system!
     Green antifreeze should be tested at every oil change for pH and effectiveness.  You'll want the antifreeze to withstand about -30 degrees Fahrenheit with about a neutral or slightly alkaline pH.  This will ensure that your coolant will be good for the winter and not harm aluminum, brass, and copper engine components.  If the pH is too low, have it flushed.  If it is neutral and still effective, even if your vehicle has 10 million miles on it, you don't need the service performed.  This service will cost $75-$125.  You can do this at home easily as well!  All you need is antifreeze, a bucket to catch it in, and a garden hose.
     Here's an interesting fact:  Antifreeze will always be effective to cool your vehicle.  The brand, type, and age of the antifreeze has no bearing on its cooling capability.

5.  Power Steering Flush
     This is another service that is middle-of-the-road for me.  If your vehicle has dirty fluid that smells burned, then that is pretty normal.  The flushing of the steering fluid with special conditioners and additives can be a good idea, but typically it is not needed.  If you love your car and want to give it the best, then by all means, have it done.
     If your steering pump is noisy, then give it a shot!  I have seen noisy pumps clear right up with a fluid flush. All of your Ford fans (like me) have heard a noisy, buzzing steering pump a few times in your life.  Flushing the fluid will quiet this significantly.  This service will run around $75.00 at a shop, but it also can be performed at home.

6.  Brake Fluid Flush
     Totally unnecessary as a maintenance item.  Brake fluid, through normal use, will not break down.  If it becomes contaminated with oil or water, it will need to be flushed right away, though.  Heat also breaks down brake fluid.  When brake fluid is heated, it becomes thick like engine oil.  If you have a sticking caliper or a jammed pad, then it is a good idea to have this service performed.  Be forewarned, though: the bleeder valves must be opened to perform this service.  Sometimes, the bleeder valves on calipers and wheel cylinders will be rusty and break off.  Count on replacing a caliper or wheel cylinder if this happens.
     This service can run up to $100, but it can also be done at home.

Keeping your vehicle maintained is all-important to prevent further problems.  Be smart about your maintenance and never buy anything you're leery of right away.  If your car runs fine, then sleep on it and ask questions about the service.  I get a lot of calls about which services to have done to a vehicle, and some of them are outright rubbish.  All of these services can be performed at home with minimal tools, though.  All you will have in to these projects is some time and materials.  Doing it yourself always saves money!  For questions about repairs and vehicle maintenance, or for steps to perform maintenance repairs, email me at DIYfixyourcar@gmail.com

Preparing for the winter months

The elements are tough on vehicles.  Not only does the salt and other road grime here in the Midwest ruin the fit and finish of the body through rust and corrosion, but the heat and cold also take their toll on your automobile.  Let's take a look at some of the things harsh weather does internally...

1.  Battery
     The battery in your car is quite important.  What do you do if it fails to function?  Call AAA?  Ask for a jump?  Let's consider the possibility that you're stuck at a closed farmer's market in the rural west of Michigan with nobody for miles and spotty cell service.  You would want your car to start in this situation without a doubt.

     Contrary to popular belief, your battery in the car is not harmed by cold temperatures-in fact, it works better in colder climates!  The heat of summer is what makes your battery fail out of the blue.  You may ask: "Why does my battery always die when it's -10 and I'm late for work?"  The answer is simple.  Your car doesn't like the cold in general.  Oil is thicker, so the starter motor has to work harder to rotate the engine.  You need precious cold cranking amps to achieve this.  The iron, aluminum, and steel in your engine contracts in the cold, drawing tighter together.  Steel piston rings draw tighter to steel cylinder sleeves and cause more friction.  Until the engine warms up, these rings move quite hard through their process of combustion.

     Your battery decides it will die in the winter because it has to work harder.  It has already sustained damage from 100+ degrees under the hood of your car all summer, draining and charging, cranking, running the blower motor for A/C, headlights at night, and all other things a battery does.  With the constant draining and charging in the heat, lime and other compounds build up on the lead plates of the battery and cause it to not accept as much of a charge.  This buildup is normal wear and has happened since the invention of the lead-acid battery.  This is why you can only expect 5-6 years from a new battery.

2.  Oil viscosity
     The oil is the life blood of your engine.  The summer months can take their toll on your oil because of increased heat and contamination.  Let's put this in lay terms-

     Take 8 ounces of cooking oil and put it in a frying pan.  Heat it to 300 degrees and see what happens-The oil will break down and reduce because of evaporation and burning.  It darkens from carbon buildup.  While it darkens and hardens, it also loses viscosity.  Viscosity is basically the oil's resistance to sheer tension or it's ability to stay in one piece while lubricating.  Viscosity is a term that describes an oil's thickness.  An increase in thickness reduces an oil's ability to effectively lubricate.

     In your car, the summer months take their toll on the oil because it is heated to extreme temperatures on a regular basis.  The increased thickness of the oil reduces it's ability to be put under tensile stress in the main bearings of the engine, thus reducing it's viscosity.  Bottom line-Use the recommended oil for your vehicle and change it regularly.  In fact, I change the oil in my vehicle just on the cusp of winter to ensure proper viscosity through the colder months.

3.  Accessories

     How many times have you gotten in your car and the windshield is frozen?  Here in Michigan, it is a way of life.  The thing to remember is that your car was not meant to break ice away from windows and the body.  Don't even think of turning your wipers on while the windshield is covered with snow or ice!  This can turn in to an expensive venture that will leave you with no windshield wipers.  Inside the wiper arm, there is a splined fitting that accepts a cam of the same splines.  The cam turns, causing the wiper arm to lift and drop.  When ice or snow blocks the arm, the splines will strip and cause damage to the cam and to the arm itself.  If you're lucky, it will only damage the arm.

4.  Cooling system

     The antifreeze in your car is just what the name suggests.  It prevents the water that cools your engine from freezing in extreme temperatures.  Let's look at an example:

     The water in your car is generally the temperature of the outside air when at rest.  Think of a 30mph wind coming through on a day when the temperatures are already 10 degrees.  This causes a windchill of -10 degrees.  Think of water at -10 degrees....it freezes quick!  Let's take a hypothetical 60mph wind on a 10 degree day...That's a windchill of about -20.  Keep in mind, the radiator in your car is right in front and will experience both 30 and 60mph in the winter months.

     When coolant freezes in an engine, it expands.  The cooling system in your car is completely sealed and will not accept much expansion, if any at all.  If it freezes in the engine of the car, it will actually cause the engine block to crack under stress.  That's right, folks...water is stronger than iron.  In the radiator of the car, if the tiny ports become blocked with ice, the cooling capacity of the car is compromised and the engine will overheat.  This will surely leave you stranded in 10 degree weather with a car that doesn't run.

     My recommendation is to check your cooling system's efficiency by buying a coolant tester.  It is a small tubular tool with a bulb on one end, similar to a turkey baster.  You suck up some coolant in the tube and there are several different balls in the tube.  The ones that float tell you how effective your antifreeze is.  Most antifreeze is effective to -30 to -40 degrees.  If you're running antifreeze that is only registering in the 0 to -5 degree range, flush and change it.

     What most people overlook is the acidity of the coolant.  When checking your coolant for effectiveness, also check for pH.  Your coolant becomes acidic through the course of it's life and will eventually break down through fermentation.  If coolant becomes too acidic, it will essentially 'eat' all of the aluminum components in the engine.  Check the price of these parts before you say: "There's not much aluminum in my engine, it won't hurt!":  Cylinder heads, water pump, radiator, intake manifold, thermostat housing, and heater core.

Please take care of your car, no matter what season it is.  Your car is not only a machine, but it is also a friend that you rely on and love.  If you have any questions about cars, repair, maintenance, automotive theory, or questions about life in general, email me at DIYfixyourcar@gmail.com.