One of my most frequent questions is about the upsells that shops recommend to vehicle owners that patronize their shops. Here are a few of the examples, what you should do, the advantage and disadvantage of the service, and what it typically costs.
1. Tire rotation
Tire rotation is always a great idea as a maintenance item. Typically, rotation should be performed every 6,000 miles if the tires on your vehicle all match and were purchased at the same time as a full set. If you're the kind of person that changes the worst two (I know I am) then you will want to consider some different options. Tire rotation actually changes seasonally. Common sense for most people dictates that the best two tires should be on the front of the car for the best braking and steering control. Some shops and manufacturers recommend the best pair on the rear for reduced oversteer and yaw control. To explain deeper, yaw is the tendency of a moving object, such as a vehicle, to spin the rear end around in a circle when turning. The weight distribution changes to the rear and one side of the vehicle in a turn, and the part of the vehicle with the increased gravitational force gains and keeps momentum more than the other sections of the car. The increased momentum and weight acts like a counterbalance and throws the rear end of the car around, sending the vehicle in to a spin. Just think of doing donuts...
I recommend having the best tires on the rear of the vehicle during the summer months and the best on the front for the winter months. Whether you're front or rear wheel drive, 70% of your braking power is on the front of the vehicle anyway. You'll want the extra traction in the front in the slippery conditions, while you'll want the extra traction on the rear for wet conditions. Typically this service is around $20-$30 at most shops that are equipped. Some places will rotate your tires for free, though. This is also a trick that gets the mechanic deeper in to your vehicle for more inspections, such as brake inspections and suspension inspections, which aren't a bad thing at all.
2. Transmission Flush
This can go either way. All automatic transmissions have a light oil that makes it work. Over time and use, this fluid becomes burned and loses viscosity. For most vehicles, the fluid is supposed to be bright red. If you pull your dipstick and find brown fluid that smells like bacon, then I would recommend a transmission flush. Basically, this service replaces the transmission fluid in the vehicle through the service of it's own pump. The fluid cooler, located in the radiator or in the vicinity, has lines or hoses that connect to the main pump of the transmission. It runs the fluid through the front of the car where fresh air can cool it to prevent burning. One of these lines or hoses is disconnected from the vehicle and placed in to a bucket of new transmission fluid. The other end is placed in to an empty bucket. Typically, 16 quarts of transmission fluid is pumped through until it comes out clean at the other end.
One of the major things to consider is the mileage and use of the vehicle. If your fluid is still red and smells good, then it is not recommended. Age never hurts oil...it sat in the ground for 65,000,000 years, so 10 years in a vehicle does nothing to hurt it. If your car has over 175,000 miles on it and the fluid still looks good, then do not flush it! Flushing a transmission with this many miles will basically "stir up the demons" and promote transmission failure. If the service has been performed regularly throughout the vehicle's life, then by all means, have it done.
Be sure the shop that performs the service uses the correct fluid for your vehicle as well. Most Ford and General Motors vehicles previous to 2005 use the same fluid: DexronIII/Mercon IV. Newer Ford vehicles take Mercon V, newer GM vehicles use Dexron IV. These fluids have friction modifiers and are a bit thinner than the previous fluids, so the shifting points and fluid pressures will be the same. In Chrysler vehicles, always use ATF+3 for vehicles previous to 2000, and ATF+4 for newer. The Chrysler fluid has a distinctive smell-but that's not all. These have special friction modifiers that save the clutches and plates, which is VERY important in a Chrysler vehicle. NEVER run Dexron/Mercon, Type F, or any other fluid in a Chrysler vehicle. Transmission failure will be on your horizon.
This service can range from $75-$150, depending on the service you select. I recommend having the best service performed in this case. The premium service will include a filter change, special cleaners, conditioners, and a reseal of the transmission oil pan, along with the correct fluid for your car.
3. Engine Flush.
Pardon my redundancy with this service. I will put a complete paragraph of what you should do in this case.
NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, get this done.
If the shop offers you a laundry list of reasons to have an engine flush done, run fast. This is a horrible way to treat your vehicle. The engine flush basically washes out the carbon deposits from the lower end of your engine, right where the bearings and seals all live. When washing away bits of carbon, oil ports and galleys can be plugged up, contaminated with both carbon and the flush agent, and the bearings will be washed out. After an engine flush, you can typically expect your car to start leaking oil, various gasket failures including head gaskets, intake gaskets, rear main seals (which the engine/transmission has to be removed to repair) and a multitude of other things.
This service can cost up to $150.00, but consider the going labor rate at your local garage to have your engine replaced. Do not have this service performed, EVER!
4. Coolant Flush
This is a great idea. Newer vehicles come with a long-life coolant. Typically this coolant is red or orange in color and will last 10 years or 100k miles. As coolant is used, the pH lowers, causing it to be corrosive. The orange coolant, in fact, will crystallize in to small solids that will plug up your radiator and heater core. Those of us with a history of Chevrolet S-10s will know what it's like when Dex-Cool clogs a heater core in the middle of winter. Typically, the heater core will clog before the radiator, mostly on GM products. I recommend having orange coolant flushed every 40-50k miles. I, in fact, will flush the system completely with Prestone dry cooling system flush, plenty of water, and convert the system to conventional green antifreeze. The green stuff will not clog up the system!
Green antifreeze should be tested at every oil change for pH and effectiveness. You'll want the antifreeze to withstand about -30 degrees Fahrenheit with about a neutral or slightly alkaline pH. This will ensure that your coolant will be good for the winter and not harm aluminum, brass, and copper engine components. If the pH is too low, have it flushed. If it is neutral and still effective, even if your vehicle has 10 million miles on it, you don't need the service performed. This service will cost $75-$125. You can do this at home easily as well! All you need is antifreeze, a bucket to catch it in, and a garden hose.
Here's an interesting fact: Antifreeze will always be effective to cool your vehicle. The brand, type, and age of the antifreeze has no bearing on its cooling capability.
5. Power Steering Flush
This is another service that is middle-of-the-road for me. If your vehicle has dirty fluid that smells burned, then that is pretty normal. The flushing of the steering fluid with special conditioners and additives can be a good idea, but typically it is not needed. If you love your car and want to give it the best, then by all means, have it done.
If your steering pump is noisy, then give it a shot! I have seen noisy pumps clear right up with a fluid flush. All of your Ford fans (like me) have heard a noisy, buzzing steering pump a few times in your life. Flushing the fluid will quiet this significantly. This service will run around $75.00 at a shop, but it also can be performed at home.
6. Brake Fluid Flush
Totally unnecessary as a maintenance item. Brake fluid, through normal use, will not break down. If it becomes contaminated with oil or water, it will need to be flushed right away, though. Heat also breaks down brake fluid. When brake fluid is heated, it becomes thick like engine oil. If you have a sticking caliper or a jammed pad, then it is a good idea to have this service performed. Be forewarned, though: the bleeder valves must be opened to perform this service. Sometimes, the bleeder valves on calipers and wheel cylinders will be rusty and break off. Count on replacing a caliper or wheel cylinder if this happens.
This service can run up to $100, but it can also be done at home.
Keeping your vehicle maintained is all-important to prevent further problems. Be smart about your maintenance and never buy anything you're leery of right away. If your car runs fine, then sleep on it and ask questions about the service. I get a lot of calls about which services to have done to a vehicle, and some of them are outright rubbish. All of these services can be performed at home with minimal tools, though. All you will have in to these projects is some time and materials. Doing it yourself always saves money! For questions about repairs and vehicle maintenance, or for steps to perform maintenance repairs, email me at DIYfixyourcar@gmail.com
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